Home

JB-News

History

Camping

Day Use Facilities

Trails

Rock Climb

Fishing

Park Map

Directions

Activities

Area Attractions

Friends of JB

Clifton Gorge

Vintage Gorge

Rock-Climbing and rappelling have long been popular pursuits for Ohioans despite there being very few sites in west central Ohio that are open to the public for the sport. Since the late 1960s rock climbing was popular on the steep limestone cliffs that form the gorge for the Little Miami River. In 1992, designated rock climbing sites were identified in John Bryan State Park. These sites are available to the public. Equipment is not provided and all climbers are encouraged to use safe climbing practices. Top-rope climbing is permitted from dawn to dusk. Bouldering is prohibited.

Þ Climbing is permitted only at designated sites. Each site is limited to a maximum of 10 people at a time.

Þ Climbers must be top roped at all times. No Lead Climbing or Bouldering.

Þ Secure to anchor bolts only. No tying to trees.

Þ All climbing sites must be vacated at sunset. Climbers must check out before park closes 1/2 hours after sunset.

 

Þ Practice Environmentally Conscious Climbing:

Þ Minimize trips to the top

Þ Do not top-out. Lower down instead

Þ Minimize the distances you travel from the cliff to avoid vegetation

Þ Leave the area cleaner than it was when you arrived

DIFFICULTY

The ratings listed below are based on the Yosemite Decimal Scale; a system widely used in North America.  All 'Five' rated climbs are 'free-climbs' which require ropes and appropriate gear.  The numbers following the decimal point indicate the relative difficulty of the climb.

The difficulty of climbs at John Bryan State Park has been evaluated by members of the Ohio Climbers Association as follows:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RED

Climb A (on the left as you face the rock) is a face climb that requires balance and finger tip strength, and goes to the notch at the top with a difficulty of 5.7.

Climb B (in the middle) is a crack climb that uses lie-back, and under-cling. It might have some water on it, but goes at about 5.6. It will require more strength, but less finesse.

Climb C (on the right as you face the rock) goes at a minimum of 5.9-. The first couple of moves off the ground are the most difficult to surmount the overhang or cave. The farther right one moves, the more difficult the climb becomes perhaps up to 5.12.

BLUE

Climb A (left) is the easiest at 5.5.  The center crack directly under the anchors has a 5.9- degree of difficulty, and the right side of anchor A is a 5.8 face climb.

Climb B is also a face climb that requires a long stretch of 5.7 difficulty.

Climb C can be conquered 2 ways.  The first being a level of 5.8 if you take the crack to the left known as “Bat Crack.” The alternate route, “Snake Ledge,” the crack to the right is a 5.7 (named for the critters that have been encountered there).

GREEN

Climb A includes a crux near the top at the overhang with a 5.9 level of difficulty if you take a direct line up. Varying from the direct line can increase the difficulty to 5.10.

Climb B is a little easier with a rating of 5.8 if you take the crack to the left, and 5.7 if you do the lie back crack on the right.

PINK

Climb A is a high overhanging wall with a difficult start. It has been rated 11B to C.

Climb B is 5.5 to 5.6 with an awkward start that requires a left foot smear on the face, or wedging a foot in the large crack. If the right side of pink B is taken the rating goes down to 5.3 or 5.4. It is another large crack and those climbing for the first time on real rock will find the crack use very different from gym climbing.

Climb C can be found about 15 feet to the right of the Pink B pathway, and is rated a 5.7.  It uses a pinch grip and a lie back with the left foot high above the pinch grip. The overhang at the top has good footholds and hand holds.

BLACK

The rappel site has a 5.2 on the left site and a 5.4 on the right site. These are the easiest for climbing and the best for rappelling.  Organized groups may reserve this site by calling the park office in advance.

The group can be of any size, but no more than 10 rapellers or spectators may be at a site at one time.  Additional group members should occupy their time with other activities away from the site in order to limit environmental impact.

ORANGE

Climb A located at the orange site is given a rating of 5.10A.  This climb involves a boost or a jump for a tall person in order to get to the starting holds. Once the face is obtained, the route is face climbing and overhanging.

Climb B is evaluated with a 5.9A rating.  This coarse follows the jam crack and uses pockets on the right side.  

YELLOW

Climb A is ranked as a 5.9C and involves some under-cling to surmount the bulge and gain the face.

Climb B can be reached by entering the cave found during climb A.  Once you are inside the cave, scale upward toward the right hand side. This starts Climb B.

If the large block behind which forms the cave is stemmed it the rating is 5.8, and if the face is used the difficulty is increased to 5.9C.

Climb C is determined to be a 5.10C, if you follow the brown streak. This limb becomes a 5.11 if you vary from the easiest line.